My PC build keeps crashing. I've noticed that it crashes after a new USB device has been connected. I can only connect my iPod, flash drive, printer, or an ext. HD for a few mins before my system crashes. However my mouse, keyboard and remote (all USB) do not cause a crash. I connected an ext. HD with firewire and have had no problems. Also it has been known to crash after extensive use. For example, playing a graphics intense game or video encoding for several hours. I believe the cause to be my mobo or a PSU problem, but I could be wrong. The error report and my system specs are below. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Error:
Error code 1000007e, parameter1 c0000005, parameter2 804f04fe, parameter3 bacfba68, parameter4 bacfb764.

System:
Windows XP Pro
AMD Athlon 64 X2 3800+ 2.01 GHz
2GB OCZ RAM
DFI Infinity Mobo
BFG Tech Geforce 7800GT
Creative X-Fi soundcard
300GB WD Velociraptor
320GB WD Caviar

PSU:
OCZ Modstream 780W Modular
Output: +3.3V@30A,+5V@30A,+12V1@20A,+12V2@20A,+12V3@20A,
+12V4@20A,-12V@1A,+5VSB@3A

Sorry I forgot to add this. I had a WD 150GB Raptor as my main drive before the Velociraptor. The Raptor died a month ago and I hoped it was the cause, but after installing the Velociraptor and reinstalling windows, the problem persisted. I've also tried numerous reinstalls of Windows, including different versions.

When did this start? Any errors in Device Manager? Many USB problems are cache related. To minimize cache related problems, under My Computer, right click on the Removable Disk, then select Properties > Hardware, then highlight the removable device and select Properties > Policies, then ensure the "Optimize for quick removal" radio button is ticked and then "Ok" your way back out. You still should wait a second or two to ensure any required "housekeeping" is complete, but then you can safely remove/disconnect the stick or other USB device without going through the Safely Remove Hardware icon.

Two years. (yeah i know...) Since I'm in college I never had the time or money to fix it. I just learned to live with it. I just have to do what I need to do with my devices in a few minutes then unplug them so it doesn't cause my system to crash. Now I have time and money though so I want to finally fix it. And no there haven't been any errors with my device manager. I'm going to try your suggestion. I'll let you know how it works.

Didn't work. Still crashing. Any other suggestions?

From what I'm reading this sounds like it is related to faulty drivers and/or hardware failure. Since you have reinstalled windows with the same results then it is probably hardware but you can try downloading & installing the latest drivers for your motherboard from the manufacturer (since your problem is either the usb ports or the usb controller) and install them. But if this also involves the graphics card then it could be either the motherboard of the psu. It would be cheaper to try & replace the psu. You can add a usb card to a pci slot for relatively cheap but that won't correct the problem with the graphics card. Keep in mind that that could also be going bad. Is it a card or is it integrated into the MB? If it is integrated then it is definitely the MB. Either way your computer could slowly be going bad. They don't last forever.

By the way, Microsoft's site says something about a creative joystick. You don't happen to have one of those do you?

I was told it was my PSU in the beginning, but this is my third one. The first two I sent back. No, the graphics card is not integrated. I just downloaded and installed the latest drivers for everything including all my USB devices, no luck. And I don't have a creative joystick.

The only original parts not returned, replaced or have since died are my CPU, MB, graphics card, & sound card. (should have probably mentioned that in the beginning)

I really appreciate your help with this, but if the best option is to throw in the towel finally and replace either my MB, graphics cards or (if there is no other option) both, I'll do it. As I said before I finally have enough money and free time to do this. I guess my question is now which one is most likely the culprit?

Two years.

(yeah i know...) Since I'm in college I never had the time or money to fix it. I just learned to live with it.

Well, I hear you, but having your computer crash, and possibly losing everything is not good either. A sudden power failure in the middle of a write can corrupt the hard drive, making the computer completely unbootable. Not good when a paper is due. At least you can set Word to automatically save every 5 minutes.

You said it crashes when you connect your iPod, flash drive, printer, or an ext. HD it crashes. What if you unplug your remote first? Is that a TV Tuner remote?

If you do not connect any of those devices, do it run fine?

I think I might suggest a Self-powered USB Hub. These get their power, and supply power to connected devices, through an external power source. Perhaps when you plug in the extra devices, it is putting too much demand on the motherboard's USB power circuits, making the system unstable. The external drive should have it's own power block the the other devices may not.

Understand a perfectly good, but underpowered PSU can cause system crashes - so even though you have replaced yours, it still must have enough power to support your system.

Make sure the system is clean of heat trapping dust and dirt. While in there, make sure all the fans spin freely.

Inspect the motherboard for bulging or leaking electrolytic capacitors. These failed or failing capacitors are a common cause of sudden, but seemingly random system lock ups and reboots. The capacitors look like tall soda cans, many of which surround the CPU socket.

All older motherboards, and many of today's less expensive motherboards use electrolytic capacitors containing a liquid electrolyte. Failing (including flawed and/or abused/over-heated) capacitors literally bulge at the seams due to excessive internal pressures. Extreme (and very rare) cases result in a firecracker type explosion that can really stink up a room. Typically, electrolyte just oozes from the pressure relief points stamped in the tops of the capacitor casings (seen as a symbol or letter). The electrolyte can be caustic to motherboards and flesh. Look for white to dark-brown, dried liquid or foam on the tops or bottoms of the capacitors. Bulging capacitors are a sign leakage is about to occur.

A motherboard with bulging or leaky capacitors can be repaired, but often it is more cost effective in the long run to replace the motherboard.

Be sure to first power down, unplug the computer, and keep yourself discharged by touching the bare metal of the case.

My computer works perfectly fine, when none of the mentioned USB devices are connected. It'll run for days.

Way ahead of you on the self powered USB hub, didn't help. My remote is a TV Tuner Remote (even though I don't have a TV tuner card). If I unplug it, before plugging something else in, I can usually extend the amount of time before it crashes, only a couple of mins though.

You're completely right about the HD failure. Thats what happened to my old Raptor a month ago and I don't want it to happen again which is why I want to fix this as soon as possible.

I keep the inside of my case pretty dust-free and all my cables are zip tied and tucked out of the way of my fans. I'll check out my MB's capacitors, but I think I finally made the decision to replace it last night. I'm probably going to buy a a real nice one, because that DFI Infinity was cheap and I don't want this happening again. Maybe a DFI Lanparty, an ASUS P5Q Deluxe, or something else along those lines.

Thanks for the help guys, I was just hoping there was one last shot before I replaced it, but every forum, person I've talked to has eventually said to replace my MB. If it works I'll post it, but don't expect it anytime soon. Thank again!

Well, DFI does make good boards, and so does ASUS. I like Gigabyte, personally. I recommend you check out MWave's "Motherboard Bundles" Wizard. This is a great research tool as it allows you to pick a CPU (like the one you own) and the wizard will list a bunch of motherboards and RAM options that will support that CPU. This is a great research tool you can use even if you buy elsewhere (although their prices are fairly competitive once you factor in shipping - if you live in the US). However, for only $9 more, MWave will mount the CPU and RAM on the motherboard AND test them - if buying the whole bundle.