Hi i recently built a new cheap gaming rig....
I built it say...2 Weeks ago?
I was playing World of Warcraft...Then all the sudden my pc turned off.

I opened it up and the Motherboard LED Light is on...So seems to me its getting power... But when I try to boot it,...No Go. I press the power switch and It doesnt do anything. No Beeps, Nothin... I tried diffrent power outlets but still..nothing...Anyhelp People of D-A-L.?

These are my known Rig Parts

P5KPL-CM G31 775 mATX Motherboard
Pentium® Dual-Core Processor E5300 Boxed
2GB DDR2-667 (PC-5300) CL5 Memory Module
Visiontek Radeon HD 4850 1GB GDDR3 PCIe 2.0 Graphics Card

Cant name the PSU or the HD's right now ..But i know there HD's are both western digitals 40GB and a 120GB.

It certainly sounds like the PSU, but sadly, it could be the motherboard, CPU or RAM, or even the graphics card. The LED on the motherboard only indicates the PSU is supplying +5Vsb standby voltage. It does not mean the PSU is supplying the other necessary voltages (+12, +5, or +3.3). And of course, gaming is very demanding, both for CPU and graphics horsepower, but on cooling too.

You need to start by verifying your PSU is good. Here's my canned text on testing for that.

To properly and conclusively test a power supply unit (PSU), it must be tested under various realistic "loads" then analyzed for excessive ripple and other anomalies. This is done by a qualified technician using an oscilloscope or power analyzer - sophisticated (and expensive) electronic test equipment requiring special training to operate, and a basic knowledge of electronics theory to understand the results. Therefore, conclusively testing a power supply is done in properly equipped electronic repair facilities.

Fortunately, there are other options that are almost as good. I keep a FrozenCPU Ultimate PSU Tester in my tool bag when I am "in the field" and don't have a good spare power supply to swap in. While not a certain test, they are better than nothing. The advantage of this model is that it has an LCD readout of the voltage. With an actual voltage readout, you have a better chance of detecting a "failing" PSU, or one barely within specified ATX Form Factor Standard tolerances. Lesser models use LEDs to indicate the voltage is just within some "range". These are less informative, considerably cheaper, but still useful for detecting PSUs that have already "failed". Newegg has several testers to choose from. All these testers contain a "dummy load" to fool the PSU into thinking it is connected to a motherboard, and therefore allows the PSU to power on, if able, without being attached to a motherboard - great for testing fans, but again, it is not a true load or suitable for conclusive testing.

As mentioned, swapping in a known good supply is a tried and trued method of troubleshooting used for centuries, even by pros. Remove the "suspect" part and replace with a "known good" part and see if the problem goes away.

I do not recommend using a multimeter to test power supplies. To do it properly, that is, under a realistic load, the voltages on all the pins must be measured while the PSU is attached to the motherboard and the computer powered on. This requires poking (with some considerable force) two hard and sharp, highly conductive meter probes into the main power connector, deep in the heart of the computer. One tiny slip can destroy the motherboard, and everything plugged into it. It is not worth the risk considering most multimeters, like plug-in testers, do not measure, or reveal any unwanted and potentially disruptive AC components to the DC voltages.

And remember, anything that plugs into the wall can kill. Do not open the power supply's case unless you are a qualified electronics technician. There are NO user serviceable parts inside a power supply.

UPDATE

I plugged the PSU into the old computer I had. One built with the help of this site
It still didnt power on...So im leaning towards PSU Failure?

I have a multi meter...But i dont exactly know how to test this so What do you all think?

After Reading Digerati's Post

Ok so I wont do that...But i hope that none of my other parts are damaged...I dont have any other PSU's lieing around and I hope that my CPU,GPU HD's are all ok...

Only other PSU i have to test to see if my motherboard ect are all workin is an old 98pc rig But we all know that (Excuse me for the not using the correct words) *Electric* Factors what ever have changed over the past so that wouldnt suffice.

What do you think about this also...

I live in a house where my father smokes. But he doesnt do it upstairs. All of yesterday I kept feeling as If i was faintly smelling some strange type of smoke..*It was the weekend so I was on the pc for quite a bit and smelt it say 3-4 times through the day...

Then this happens. Hmmm..

Smoke from failing electronics smells nothing like something your father would smoke. The biggest danger from smoke is that dust sticks to it.

You can try removing all unnecessary hardware to include extra USB devices and all but one stick of RAM, but really, you need to try a different PSU.

Originally Posted by Digerati

Smoke from failing electronics smells nothing like something your father would smoke. The biggest danger from smoke is that dust sticks to it.

You can try removing all unnecessary hardware to include extra USB devices and all but one stick of RAM, but really, you need to try a different PSU.

Allright thanks. I guess Ill try to buy another PSU...Its kinda not expected. I had all new parts and Using a 2yearold PSU that came with a 50$ Case.

I had all new parts and Using a 2yearold PSU that came with a 50$ Case.

Ah! Well, that conveniently brings us to my next canned text -

Use the eXtreme PSU Calculator Lite to determine your power supply unit (PSU) requirements. Plug in all the hardware you think you might have in 2 or 3 years (extra drives, bigger or 2nd video card, more RAM, etc.). Be sure to read and heed the notes at the bottom of the page. I recommend setting Capacitor Aging to 30%, and if you participate in distributive computing projects (e.g. BOINC or Folding@Home), I recommend setting TDP to 100%. These steps ensure the supply has adequate head room for stress free operation and future demands. Research your video card and pay particular attention to the power supply requirements for your card listed on your video card maker's website. If not listed, check a comparable card (same graphics engine and RAM) from a different maker. The key specifications, in order of importance are:

1. Current (amperage or amps) on the +12V rail,
2. Efficiency,
3. Total wattage.

Then look for power supply brands listed under the "Good" column of PC Mechanic's PSU Reference List. Ensure the supplied amperage on the +12V rails of your chosen PSU meets the requirements of your video card. Don't try to save a few dollars by getting a cheap supply. And don't count on supplies that come included with a case. They are often underrated, budget or poor quality models "tossed in" to make the case sale. Digital electronics, including CPUs, RAM, and today's advanced graphics cards, need clean, stable power. A good, well chosen supply will provide years of service and upgrade wiggle room. I strongly recommend you pick a supply with an efficiency rating equal to, or greater than 80%. Look for the 80 Plus - EnergyStar Compliant label. And don't forget to budget for a good UPS with AVR (automatic voltage regulation), as surge and spike protectors are inadequate.

Same calculator Ive used before came out to around 300Watts

But just your opinion and not saying that this is the answer.

The fact that my PSU wont power 2 computers but it did before would lead you to think that my problem is PSU related?

What it did before has nothing to do with what it does today. If today it does not work in 2 different computers, then that would convince me the PSU went bad.

But just your opinion and not saying that this is the answer.

What?

Ahh nevermind you answered my Question i just typed it weird.
Ill invest in a new psu when I get the money.

Let's just hope that's all that's bad. I have seen power supplies fail, then take out the rest of the computer in the process. That's the extreme and not common, fortunately.