Recently replaced a AMD XP1800+ processor with an XP2600+

Everything seemed OK

However, after searching on the internet and playing music through Creative sound, on running Ad-Adware on full scan I get a blue screen

Microsoft error report came back with NVIDIA NVENET.SYS driver update required

Clicked link took me to nforce_5.10_WinXP2K+WHQL

Downloaded, and offered a number of drivers

An audio one - installed

An ethernet one -when attempted installation crashed windows - Blue Screen

Windows error log shows following faults

05 September 2008
Server The server could not bind to the transport \Device\NetBT_Tcpip_{81B3C023- 4FF7-49B7-9BF2-EB4522BF5DFE} because another computer on the network has the same name. The server could not start.

05 September 2008
ipnathlp The Network Address Translator (NAT) was unable to request an operation of the kernel-mode translation module. This may indicate misconfiguration, insufficient resources, or an internal error. The data is the error code.

05 September 2008
Service Control Manager The spmgr service failed to start due to the following error: The service did not respond to the start or control request in a timely fashion.

September 2008
Service Control Manager Timeout (30000 milliseconds) waiting for the spmgr service to connect

Any suggestions please

Make and model of computer or motherboard?
Operating System?
How recently did you replace CPU? Hours? Days? Did you use TIM?
How do you connect to your network?

Manufacturer Mesh Computers
Model XP1800+
Motherboard:
Spec: ASUSTeK Computer Inc:
System Model: Asus A7N8X2.0
BIOS version: Phoenix Tech. Ltd A7N8X2.0 Deluxe ACPI BIOS rev. 1005
Original Processor: AMD Athlon XP 1800+
1531 MHz
Replaced processor: AMD Athlon XP 2600+
2079MHz
Memory: 1.5 GB
Operating System Windows XP

A thermal paste was used with the heat sink

The CPU temperature is 45C, 49C under load
The CPU Diode temperature is 55C, 64C when running 100% on CPU

The processor was replaced 3 weeks ago

Okay, so for 3 weeks, it worked fine? I am just trying to see if replacing the CPU and your current problems are related. If it worked for 3 weeks, then I would think not. I think you have more than one problem here.

I note your 2600+ runs with a 166MHz bus while the 1800+ runs at 133MHz. That should not be a problem for the motherboard and if the RAM supports that speed, it should not have a problem either. You might want to see what a program like CPUz reports.

The CPU temperature is 45C, 49C under load
The CPU Diode temperature is 55C, 64C when running 100% on CPU

It is not typical to have two different CPU sensors. Did you install the diode probe yourself? If the 64°C is correct, that would concern me as I tend to get paranoid when they start touching 60°C.

Make sure the interior is clean of heat trapping dust and dirt, and all fans spin freely. You want good front to back air flow through the case. I recommend at least 2 case fans, preferably large, 120mm, and if possible, one in front drawing cool air in, and another in the back pulling hot air out. That is 2 in addition to any in the PSU.

Speaking of PSUs - sadly, PSUs selected during the production of factory made PCs are usually selected to support the power requirements of the existing hardware at the cheapest cost. This is not good because (1) all power supplies get weak over time, (2) the efficiency of the devices powered don't get better with age either, and (3) people tend to bump up the RAM, add drives and USB devices, and replace the CPU too. And that's not to mention power hungry graphics upgrades!

Use the eXtreme PSU Calculator Lite to determine your power supply unit (PSU) requirements. Plug in all the hardware you think you might have in 2 or 3 years (extra drives, bigger or 2nd video card, more RAM, etc.). Be sure to read and heed the notes at the bottom. I recommend you set Capacitor Aging to 30%, and if you participate in distributive computing projects (e.g. BOINC or Folding@Home), I recommend setting TDP to 100%. Research your video card and pay particular attention to the power supply requirements for your card listed on your video card maker's website. Then look for power supply brands listed under the "Good" column of PC Mechanic's PSU Reference List. Ensure the supplied amperage on the +12V rails of your chosen PSU meets the requirements of your video card. Don't try to save a few dollars by getting a cheap supply. Digital electronics, including CPUs, RAM, and today's advanced graphics cards, need clean, stable power. A good, well chosen supply will provide years of service and upgrade wiggle room. I strongly recommend you pick a supply with an efficiency rating equal to, or greater than 80%. Look for the 80 Plus - EnergyStar Compliant label. And don't forget to budget for a good UPS with AVR (automatic voltage regulation).

I generally prefer to get drivers from the board makers, and not the chipset makers. You can be fairly confident ASUS tested their posted drivers on your specific (and aging) model and version number board. It is not likely nVidia did. With so many "on-board" devices giving problems, I would stick ASUS provided drivers only.

Just to be certain, this is the same boot drive/installation of Windows, since initial purchase, correct?

And we still don't know how you connect to your network - with the understanding a network can be a network of just one computer connected to a router, or directly to the "gateway" - typically the cable/DSL modem.