[Zero1]

Yea I found this board that supports DDR3:

http://www.asus.com/products.aspx?l1...89&modelmenu=1

I haven't worked with an Asus board yet and my only goals with this computer I am building is to be able to play High Def movies and blue ray, do my photoshop stuff. No major gaming involved. All boards I have seen by Asus were for gaming that supported DDR3.

[jephree]

Nice board.

DDR3 RAM is still quite expensive but that would be a great foundation for a high end system.

[Zero1]

Alright that is one Green Light. Anyone else going to give me that?

[Zero1]

I just want to make sure, If I get that then will I be able to use DDR3 1600 or it will only work unless overclocked?

[Digerati]

I personally think that board is way overkill for your stated purposes and if me, I would take the extra $100 - $150 saved going with a less "extreme" board and invest that money in better graphics and/or more RAM.

No doubt that is a good board and as Jephree points out, it would be great for a high-end machine, but you don't need that high end of a machine for watching movies, and messing with Photoshop. You need a nice (not extreme, but nice) CPU, a very good graphics card, a big hard drive (or two) and 2Gb of RAM.

I happen to like Gigabyte boards but if they were not around, I would not hesitate going with, or recommending ASUS - however, both tend to cost a bit more than other capable brands, such as DFI or MSI.

I do think you are wise to go with Intel - AMD makes great processors, but the latest generations of Intels just simply outperform, generate less heat, and consume less power than equivalent AMD processors. Sadly, the only area AMD is competitive in, is price. But that's still good for us consumers.

For beginners (and experienced too) I recommend you check out MWave's "Motherboard Bundles" Wizard. This is a great research tool as it allows you to pick a motherboard, then the Wizard will offer a big list of CPUs and RAM that MWave has already determined are compatible with that motherboard. Or, you can start with a CPU and the wizard will list a bunch of motherboards and RAM options that will support that CPU. This is a great research tool you can use even if you buy elsewhere (although their prices are fairly competitive once you factor in shipping - if you live in the US). However, for only $9 more, MWave will mount the CPU and RAM on the motherboard AND test them. So not only do you know from the Wizard that your components work together, you know your specific parts will not be DOA - a nice warm fuzzy for only $9.
****

I don't know your computer building experience, but I will take this opportunity to point out a couple common new builder mistakes.

1. Get a good quality case. The case must house and protect the internal components from physical damage, and it must provide adequate cooling. Too many times, new builders will buy or use the cheapest case they can find - or they will opt for the case with a fancy, flashy facade. A quality case has, as a minimum,

Finished edges on the sheet metal - to prevent hard-to-cleanup blood and chunks of knuckle from getting all over the electronics, and vulgarities from reaching juvenile ears,
"True" geometry - meaning the corners are at 90° angles, not 89° or 91°,
Reinforced corners - to keep the case "true" preventing case flexing or wobble which puts undue strain and flexing on attached components, i.e. the motherboard,
Sufficient cooling options to provide adequate front to back air flow.

I won't buy a case again unless it has a washable air filter and supports at least two 120mm fans, preferably one in front drawing cool air in, and one in back exhausting air out.

And as far as fancy lights and facade, well, they do nothing for performance, they draw some power, therefore they generate some heat, the bane of all electronics. Beyond that, I tend to watch my monitors and listen to my speakers, preferring not to be distracted by audio and visual "noise". A case should sit discreetly and quietly out of the way. JMHO.

2. Get a good power supply. A cheap PSU is like throwing cheap, no-name, generic gas in your new Porsche. Use the eXtreme PSU Calculator Lite to determine your power supply unit (PSU) requirements. Plug in all the hardware you think you might have in 2 or 3 years (extra drives, bigger or 2nd video card, more RAM, etc.). Be sure to read and heed the notes at the bottom. I recommend you set Capacitor Aging to 30%, and if you participate in distributive computing projects (e.g. BOINC or Folding@Home), I recommend setting TDP to 100%. Research your video card and pay particular attention to the power supply requirements listed on your video card maker's website for your card. Then look for power supply brands listed under the "Good" column of PC Mechanic's PSU Reference List. Ensure the supplied amperage on the +12V rails of your chosen PSU meets the requirements of your video card. Don't try to save a few dollars by getting a cheap supply. Digital electronics, including CPUs, RAM, and today's advanced graphics cards, need clean, stable power. A good, well chosen supply will provide years of service and upgrade wiggle room. I strongly recommend you pick a supply with an efficiency rating equal to, or greater than 80%.

NOTE: Many case retailers will "toss-in" a power supply, just to make the case sell. In some cases, they may be good, brand name supplies, but often, they are some off-brand junk. Be prepared to swap in a good one - you can keep the other for emergencies, and they are great for testing fans.

3. Double (or triple) check to ensure standoffs are installed in the case ONLY where there is a corresponding mounting hole on the motherboard - Cases support 1000s of motherboards. Therefore there will normally be more possible standoff locations than needed for any given motherboard. Verify you do not have any extra standoffs under the board that may short out and destroy your brand new motherboard (and if really unlucky, CPU, RAM, and all cards attached too) upon first power up.

4. Understand ESD and how to eliminate static and prevent damage to ESD sensitive devices.

5. Use some sort of thermal interface material when mounting the heatsink fan assembly.

[Zero1]

Well from your site I came across this:

Asus P5K3 Deluxe/WiFi-AP

That cut down the price by about 100 bucks give or take. It's this much at where I want to buy it:

http://www.canadacomputers.com/index...580&cid=MB.157

Now that should be able to support this memory module right:

http://www.canadacomputers.com/index...id=RAM.346.983

If I went to the DDR3 1600 then I would have to overclock the board correct?

Parts I already purchased (links only) :

Case:

http://www.canadacomputers.com/index...512&cid=CS.664

Hard Drives:
http://www.canadacomputers.com/index...cid=HD.443.877
http://www.canadacomputers.com/index...cid=HD.443.877

PSU:

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applicatio...557&CatId=1483

Heatsink (Have a feeling that this might not be good with that board) :

http://www.canadacomputers.com/index...302&cid=FN.349

Video Card:

XFX 6800 XT 256MB GDDR3

CPU:

Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 2.4GHz with G0 core stepping. (does that mean its better than the B3?)

[Digerati]

Yes, that memory should work.

The G0 is newer, fixes some bugs, so it should be better.

Be warned that if you buy a "retail" version of the CPU, and it comes with a heatsink fan assembly, then using a HSF other than Intel's voids the warranty.

Intel CPU Warranty Information (my bold added)

Intel warrants the Product (defined as the boxed Intel® processor and the accompanying thermal solution)... ... if the Product is properly used and installed, for a period of three (3) years. This Limited Warranty does NOT cover:

• damage to the Product due to external causes, including accident, problems with electrical power, abnormal electrical, mechanical or environmental conditions, usage not in accordance with product instructions, misuse, neglect, alteration, repair, improper installation, or improper testing; OR
• any Product which has been modified or operated outside of Intel's publicly available specifications

[Zero1]

My CPU was purchased as an OEM so I am pretty sure that warranty for retail is avoided either way. And If I went for higher memory I would have to overclock the board no?

Do you think that Heatsink will fit on the board?

[Digerati]

I still think that's a lot of motherboard for your stated purposes - but I don't think it will be a disappointment.

The key is if a HSF assembly came with the CPU - if no fan, then you are okay as for the warranty. Of course, OEM CPUs are warrantied for 1 year while retail are for 3.

And If I went for higher memory I would have to overclock the board no?

What do you mean by "higher"? If you mean more or faster, no - you never have to overclock. And faster RAM will toggle down in speed if put into a slower computer.

BTW, regardless the utilities provided and capabilities of the motherboard for overclocking, again you never have to overclock and if damage to the motherboard, RAM, graphics card, CPU, etc. occurs that can be attributed to overclocking (or excess heat), that damage is not covered either. In case you cannot guess, I am not a fan of overclocking - at least not by those who do not have a thorough understanding the potential consequences, the theory, or the mechanics of overclocking, and for those that are not prepared to lose everything - that is the computer AND all data stored on it!

Overclocking should be left to advanced users/computer hobbyists and should never be done on a "production" machine - that is, a computer used for work, school, or other important tasks.

I don't know off hand if that HSF will fit. The problem is not the socket type, the problem is the clearance between the heatsink and the components surrounding the socket. If they are too tall, it will not fit. HSF makers used to have lists for what motherboards fit, but I guess that got too hard to keep updated.

[Zero1]

Thank you for all your input Digerati! I do plan to overclock the system later in the future. Maybe 2 years or so after its built just to get the feel and knowledge of how it is done. Plus it will be used for Raid when I get more money.