i have a P5SD2-VM mainboard set up with a 750watt psu intel dual-core cpu and 1gb memory but when i connect monitor to onboard or pci graphics card i get no signal on monitor no beeps from comp on start up ive tried resting bios useing jumper tried monitor on another comp and it works and also tried monitor from my working comp on that and i get nothing.
any help or suggestions would be great

thanks
dave

Did this motherboard ever work?

Does the CPU FAN turns?

Try the following to discharge and reset the computer sometimes may get the screen display again:

Unplug the power cord to the computer, pressing the power on button for over 20 seconds do not let go.

Then plug the power cord back to the computer, power on the computer.

Reseat all the parts like RAM, VGA(if dedicated), PSU connectors, HDD data cable...etc may help as well.

Hope this helps you.
Bill
Tech Manager Wptinc

Unplug the power cord to the computer, pressing the power on button for over 20 seconds do not let go.

I have seen this suggested a few times in the past but I have never, and still cannot find it documented in any electronics or computer white paper or KB article anywhere. The ATX Form Factor PSU Design Guide does not mention it. My own experiences and testing has never provided positive results. I have studied ATX power supplies and motherboards at a circuit theory level. The power on circuit, activated by shorting two power pins in the motherboards front panel I/O header (which is what the front panel power button does) is a "momentary" circuit - meaning, holding the button down does nothing. The short is acted on when first pressed, then simply ignored after that until the button is released and pressed again. In fact, the ATX standard requires ATX PSUs to have "de-bounce" circuitry for the sole purpose of preventing the PSU from cycling on and off when activated by the mechanical switch.

There are no storage capacitors or any other power storage device in that circuit on the motherboard. And once the PSU is unplugged from the wall (or the master switch in back of the PSU, if it has one is set to off), bleeder resistors in the applicable power circuits of the power supply immediately remove the +5Vsb and any other residual voltages, shunting them to ground.

ATX PSUs are required to maintain a minimum "hold-on" time of 17ms to help compensate for dips (opposite of spikes) in the input AC power, but the maximum hold-up time is just 100 - 500ms (1/10 to 1/2 second).

I think this old "trick" came out of ancient history for other electronic devices like air conditioners and old, vacuum tube type TVs. It really makes no sense for digital electronics and switching power supplies. I suspect if this trick works, it is simply the unplugging from the wall for a few seconds that does the trick, not pressing and holding the power button.

So, got a link to any official, reliable source that documents this procedure?

sorry i havnt replied till now i was working away the motherboard did once work but then got stored in its anti static packaging and box in a cupboard where no damage could come to it.
i have made sure there i no power going to it at all reset the cmos and all the other basic things like removing everything but power cables.
i have borrowed a friends post code card from him plugged it into the pci slot powered the computer up and it gives me D4 92 on the screen but he dont have the manual for the card anymore but says the manual was in another language anyway does this mean anything at all to any of you techs out there?

thanks dave

I think you need the manual, and you also need the BIOS maker. If you plug into Google, PCI Diagnostic card codes you get a lot of hits, with illustrations. You might be able to sort out which you have.

And this motherboard, to the best of your knowledge worked when it was put in storage, and it still has a known good CPU and RAM installed? How long in storage? The battery may need to be replaced.

i replaced the battery and tried so many things with this motherboard and then as 1 last effort of hope before i threw it out i decided to try my new memory i had bought for my other comp in this board and all of a sudden it worked so i took the memory that was in it to my dad who has a very expensive tester for memory and he found out the memory was damaged but not quite damaged enough that the motherboard would pick up on it and give me the beeps i normally hear from the motherboard so i am now running this computer and have had no problems since the new memory went in it just meant i had to go out and by some more memory for the computer that the memory was intended for before i tried it in this one but i wont complain as the memory was cheaper than it would have been to buy the motherboard i would have used to replace this one.

thanks for all your suggestions and in future i will remember that motherboards dont always give beeps for faulty memory

When we found any issue with the RAMs, we always try clean the gold leads pins using a rubber gently on both sides.
This can get a better contact and remove the oxidized pins somehow.

Cheers!
Bill

For those in America and other places that don't speak the "Queen's English", "rubber" in this instance is a pencil "eraser". This is an old, tried and true trick for cleaning all sorts of electrical connections.

However, extreme caution must be taken to avoid destroying the RAM with an electro-static discharge (ESD). So never touch the contacts with you bare fingers (for ESD and skin oils - which promote corrosion and attracts dust) and keep yourself and the RAM at the same "potential" by touching bare metal of the case before and frequently while handling the RAM.

Make sure eraser is clean.

Simply reseating the RAM in its socket a couple times can achieve the same effect as the contacts are scraped clean. And the advantage here is the spring tension in the socket causes you to also clean the socket contacts in the process. Again, proper ESD control is essential - and of course, care to ensure the sticks are not inserted backwards is essential whenever RAM is removed. For some "ZIF" (zero insertion force) sockets, the eraser is a better option. With ZIF connectors, the device is simply placed in the socket then clamped to secure in place. There is no spring tension to put pressure and scrape during insertion. A CPU socket is typical of this type, though some older motherboards used this type RAM connector too.

Note that gold does not oxidize - which is exactly why it is often used for critical contacts that cannot be hermetically sealed. It does, however, get dirty - especially when fans are blowing dust, hair, dander and the oils they contain at the connectors. Gold, especially these days, is also very expensive so not always used. It is also NOT the best conductor, contrary to popular belief (not enough free electrons in its outer atomic shell), and it is very soft so often alloys with silver (the best conductor), copper (#2 conductor) which do oxidize, and other materials are used to make the contacts more durable.

Good tip!