Fujitsu Esprimo E5730


Mainboard
Mainboard type D2824
Formfactor proprietary
Chipset Intel® Q43
Processor socket LGA 775
Processor quantity maximum 1
System bus (FSB / HT / QPI) up to 1333 MHz
Memory slots 4 DIMM (DDR2)
Supported capacity RAM (max.) 16 GB
Memory frequency 800 MHz
Memory notes With future modules.
Dual channel support.
For dual channel performance, identical memory modules in each channel are necessary (minimum 2 modules).
LAN 10/100/1000 MBit/s Intel® 82567LF
BIOS version Phoenix 6.0
BIOS features BIOS Flash EPROM update by software
Recovery BIOS
Audio codec Realtek ALC663
Audio features Internal speaker supports audio playback, High Definition audio




E8400 Core 2 Duo cpu @ 3.00GHz

2GB DDR2 RAM

2 x 250Gb HDD's (SATA II 7200 rpm)

10/100/1000 network port

Super DVD multi recorder




This is the intergrated graphics

Name: Intel(R) Q45/Q43 Express Chipset
Memory: 790 MB
Resolution: 1280 x 1024, 32 Bit, 75 Hz
Processor: Intel(R) 4 Series Express Chipset Family


any help would be great!

Well, sadly you neglected to state the primary purpose of your computer, or your budget. But in any event, I recommend you check Toms Hardware Best Graphics Cards For The Money: November 2010 .

well i wanna play games, but i dont know what card will be compatible?

Well, according to this, your system will support PCIe cards but you appear to have a low-profile (slim) case so you are limited to a low profile card. Not sure what the best site to look for in the UK but any PCIe Low Profile card should work. You do, however, need to ensure that your power supply is able to support the added demands of a new card.

so any PCIe card will fit, i thought only certain models would didnt know they was generic, im not sure of the watage of the power pack as i dont have the system yet its on its way to me, but is there some sort of scale i should go by?

so any PCIe card will fit

No. As I noted, your system requires a low profile card because you have a slim case. And they are not generic. As seen with Newegg there are plenty of name brand choices.

According to that same link above for your computer, your computer will come with a 300W supply. That is not very big, but typical. When shopping for a card, look for the minimum PSU requirements for the card. Some list it, some don't. When looking at Newegg for reference, you may see it listed. If not, you need to go the card maker's site and find it.

Below is my canned text on sizing and selecting a PSU. BUT - note that many low profile (slim) cases will only support low profile or slim power supplies and they don't normally come in high power models because they cannot physically support the necessarily large transformer and heat sinks inside powerful power supplies. So you definitely have a limited pool of choices, but you do have choices.

Use the eXtreme PSU Calculator Lite to determine your minimum power supply unit (PSU) requirements. Plug in all the hardware you think you might have in 2 or 3 years (extra drives, bigger or 2nd video card, more RAM, etc.). Be sure to read and heed the notes at the bottom of the page. I recommend setting Capacitor Aging to 30%, and if you participate in distributive computing projects (e.g. BOINC or Folding@Home) or extreme 3D animated gaming, I recommend setting both TDP and system load to 100%. These steps ensure the supply has adequate head room for stress free (and perhaps quieter) operation, and future hardware demands. Research your video card and pay particular attention to the power supply requirements for your card listed on your video card maker's website. If not listed, check a comparable card (same graphics engine and RAM) from a different maker. The key specifications, in order of importance are:

1. Current (amperage or amps) on the +12V rail,
2. Efficiency,
3. Total wattage.

Don’t try to save a few dollars by getting a cheap supply! Digital electronics, including CPUs, RAM, and today's advanced graphics cards, need clean, stable power. A good, well chosen supply will provide years of service and upgrade wiggle room. Look for power supply brands listed under the "Good" column of PC Mechanic's PSU Reference List. Another excellent read is Tom’s Hardware, Who’s Who In Power supplies: Brands, Labels, And OEMs. Note that some case retailers “toss in” a generic or inadequate PSU just to make the case sale. Be prepared to “toss out” that supply for a good one with sufficient power.

Most PSUs have an efficiency rating of around 70%. This means for every 100 watts of power a PSU draws from the wall, only 70 watts is delivered to the motherboard, with the rest wasted in the form of heat. The best supplies are 85 to 90% efficient, and as expected, cost more. I strongly recommend you pick a quality supply with an efficiency rating equal to or greater than 80%. Look for 80 Plus - EnergyStar Compliant labels.

Too big of a PSU hurts nothing but your budget. Your computer will draw from the PSU only what it needs, not what the PSU is capable of delivering. If a computer needs 300 watts it will draw 300 watts regardless if the PSU is a 350W, 650W, or 1000W PSU. In turn, the PSU, regardless its size will draw from the wall only what it needs to support the computer. In this example, it will draw 300 watts, plus another 45 – 90 watts, depending on the PSU’s inefficiency.

As noted, the eXtreme Calculator determines the minimum requirements. If the calculator (with the changes I suggested) recommends a 400 watt minimum, a quality 400W supply will serve you just fine. But a quality 550W – 600W supply will have, among other things, larger heat sinks to dissipate potentially more heat. It might have a larger fan too. The 400W supply will run most of the time closer to capacity, while the larger supply will be loafing along, rarely breaking a sweat. To help the smaller heat sinks get rid of the wasted 80 watts (20% of 400) of heat, the fan in the 400W supply may need to run full speed, while the fan in the larger supply, with bigger sinks just loafs along too – but in near silence.

Don't forget to budget for a good UPS with AVR (automatic voltage regulation). Surge and spike protectors are inadequate.

so would this be fine, im sorry i keep bothering ya, but this is the first time im looking for my self, i can put a comp together, but i donno whats stuff to get myself lol

It is no bother since I don't have to respond but you do need to follow what is said so we stop wasting time and effort repeating what's already been said. Note I said above you need to research the card you are interested in to see what the power supply requirements are. Your link does not show that so as I indicated, you then need to go to the maker's site and look there. As can be seen here, the maker recommends a 350W supply.