I was either getting "the blue screen of death" or my computer was freezing up for no reason until I reinstalled XP using the recovery disk. Well, that solved the blue screen problem but my computer is still freezing up. I have tried several things to try and fix the freeze problem such as:

I updated drivers
I ran software to fix the registry
I ran System Mechanic Professional 7
I installed a new hard drive and installed my OS onto that after removing the old one
I installed a new graphics card
I am using a different keyboard
I have ran a scan disk program
I ran memtest 86 & a memory test Microsoft puts out with no errors
I have installed new RAM
I have installed a new cable internet port & card (not sure about the lingo)

I may have done more stuff than that but that's all I can think of right now. I'm really not sure about what it could be. I'm fairly certain it is a hardware problem. Someone told me that if the Num. Lock key freezes up on the keyboard when the computer froze, that means its a hardware problem (which mine does). I'm not sure if that is true or not.

I bought this computer about two and a half years ago. It is a gateway gt5028. It came with a 250 GB HD and 1 GB of RAM. Since then, I have installed 2 more GB RAM and like I said before, I installed a new 500 GB HD. I also installed a new graphics card that has 512 MB RAM.

Any help, suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

How many watts is the PSU? You've loaded a lot of new load.

If you are mixing memory modules: do not.

Only matching pairs.

Using a PSU tester might be a good idea:

PSU Tester

........................................

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/40...l?tl=g11c28s88

Alright. I opened the computer to find out how many watts the PSU is. I don't know alot about this stuff so I am going to write it on here as I found it on the sticker:

Bestec
ATX-300-12E
input: 100-127V-6A 200-240V-3A 50/60 Hz
output: +12V= / 15A -12V= /0.8A
+5V = /30A +5VSB= /2A
+3.3V = /28A
+5V & + 3.3V 180W Max
+5V & +12V & +3.3V 288W Max

As far as the memory modules go, I went ahead and took the two out that came with the computer: 2 - 512 MB DDR 400MHz
I had purchased 2 1GB DDR sticks a while back and had all 4 modules in the computer. I hope that is what you are talking about.

I also removed the graphics card as I won't need it since that isn't the cause of the problem. I went back to the one that came with the computer and I reinstalled the drivers for it. I will be returning the new graphics card.

I don't have a PSU tester and really don't want to purchase one. I don't know what the machine is called that electricians use, but I have access to one of those if that will work.

Thanks for the help.

A "multimeter" will not work because the PSU needs a load in order to show the voltage.

PSU testers actually put a load on the PSU.

From the above it looks like a 288 or perhaps 300 Watt PSU which is very minimal especially with modern hardware.

Do you notice any difference with the RAM and Graphics card gone?

You might want to lose the 500GB hard drive to see if that makes a difference.

no difference with the RAM and graphics card gone.

I don't think it is the new hard drive because it was doing this prior to me getting the new hard drive. That's one reason I got the new hard drive.

Would installing a new power supply help at all? I'm looking at bestbuy.com and they have a 500 watt for $97. I may try this. If it doesn't work, I can always return it.

Any other ideas?

Thanks for your help

Worth a try.

The other things left are the CPU or motherboard.

Is the CPU fan clean? Have you ever monitored its temperature?

Someone told me that if the Num. Lock key freezes up on the keyboard when the computer froze, that means its a hardware problem (which mine does). I'm not sure if that is true or not.

It's not. The only thing a frozen Numlock tells you is that the computer really has crashed, and you will need to do a reset.

If the Numlock still works after the computer "appears" to be frozen, walk away for 5 minutes or so - Windows is often able to sort things out and start working. However, at that point, I would probably recommend a reboot - so that everything is "gracefully" closed.

This looks like a bad motherboard to me, but I agree with jephree would try the PSU first. An underpowered or overstressed PSU can cause some very strange symptoms.

As for returning the PSU if it does not help, I would not. Your old supply is from an off-brand with a poor reputation, and 300W is on the low side.

Use the eXtreme PSU Calculator Lite to determine your power supply unit (PSU) requirements. Plug in all the hardware you think you might have in 2 or 3 years (extra drives, bigger or 2nd video card, more RAM, etc.). Be sure to read and heed the notes at the bottom. I recommend you set Capacitor Aging to 30%, and if you participate in distributive computing projects (e.g. BOINC or Folding@Home), I recommend setting TDP to 100%. Research your video card and pay particular attention to the power supply requirements listed on your video card maker's website for your card. Then look for power supply brands listed under the "Good" column of PC Mechanic's PSU Reference List. Ensure the supplied amperage on the +12V rails of your chosen PSU meets the requirements of your video card. Don't try to save a few dollars by getting a cheap supply. Digital electronics, including CPUs, RAM, and today's advanced graphics cards, need clean, stable power. A good, well chosen supply will provide years of service and upgrade wiggle room. I strongly recommend you pick a supply with an efficiency rating equal to, or greater than 80%. And don't forget to buget for a good UPS with AVR (automatic voltage regulation).

Inspect the motherboard for bulging or leaking electrolytic capacitors. These failed or failing capacitors are a common cause of sudden, but seemingly random system lock ups and reboots.

The capacitors look like tall soda cans, many of which surround the CPU socket. All older and most newer motherboards use electrolytic capacitors, which contain a liquid electrolyte. Failing (including flawed and/or abused/over-heated) capacitors literally bulge at the seams due to excessive internal pressures. Extreme (and very rare) cases result in a firecracker type explosion that can really stink up a room.

Typically, electrolyte just oozes from the pressure relief points stamped in the tops of the capacitor casings (seen as a symbol or letter). The electrolyte can be caustic to motherboards and flesh.

Look for white to dark-brown, dried liquid or foam on the tops or bottoms of the capacitors. Bulging capacitors are a sign leakage is about to occur.

A motherboard with bulging or leaky capacitors can be repaired, but often it is more cost effective in the long run to replace the motherboard. Leaking capacitors is something everyone should inspect for, just as a matter of routine. I normally recommend monthly inspections, and cleaning if necessary, of the computer case interior. This ensures there is no heat trapping dust or dirt buildup on the motherboard, video card, vents, fans, and heat sinks. Give the fans a flick of the finger to make sure they spin freely while in there. Then survey the field for leaking capacitors, loose connections, or anything out of the usual. Be sure to first power down, unplug the computer, and keep yourself discharged by touching the bare metal of the case.

alright, I installed a 600 watt power supply and that unfortunately wasn't it. My computer is still freezing up. Any other ideas? I believe all that is left to check is the CPU and the Motherboard. Does anybody know about how much these items cost?

Thanks

Motherbaord's are around £30-£70

I had to replace mine and it cost me £40.
Look on eBuyer, as they do lots of good deals on mobos and processors,

--PAul

Motherbaord's are around £30-£70

£30 ~ $60 and £70 ~ $140

Motherboards can cost considerably less, $30 (£15) to much, MUCH more, $300 (£150) or more depending on the quality and included features.

It would appear your board uses the 939 socket which can still be found, although they are rapidly phasing out. It looks like Newegg has just 1, the ECS KN1 SLI Lite for $34. This will support your existing CPU and RAM (PC3200/DDR400) - assuming they are still good. However, when it comes to replacing motherboards in older PCs, I generally recommend a new motherboard/CPU/RAM upgrade as it would be better to step forward to more current technology to carry you further down the road, even though that will mean more up front costs now. That's just the cost of living in a world of rapidly advancing technologies. At least now you have the PSU to handle just about anything you throw at it.